ZOOM#7: testing trends in cosmetics, Hair and scalp lipids Evaluation, “Boost Your Test” special animation zone in-cosmetics

10 April 2018

Please find enclosed our Newsletter: ZOOM#7, special edition for “Boost Your Test” in-cosmetics Amsterdam.

Will be happy to meet you booth K140.

Discover “Boost Your Test”, a unique and new highlight of the in-cosmetics testing zone in Amsterdam.

It means that we will have three days to talk with you about devices, analytical, in-vitro and human testing.

We will be able to answer specifically your questions about Microbiote, Anti-pollution and Anti-ageing and give you new ideas for your future claim substantiation strategy. Then we will attend ISBS conferences in San Diego in May.

Please find in this newsletter the latest news of our partners’ instrumentation and testing labs: Cerco, Complife, Cosmepar, Dermscan, DNAgensee, Eotech, Eurofins, I.E.C, Intertek, Microfactory, Phylogene and Scientist.com and the Boost Your Test partners: CIDP, STRATICELL, PhDTrials and WWI among others.

Upload the complete Newsletter: skinobs-zoom#7.web

We will have a focus of the last news of our partners :

  • DNA Gensee: plant/algae authentication and DNA traceability in cosmetics
  • Using Scientist.com, researchers access to the most innovative technologies
  • Surface and In-depth Lipids by the Cerco
  • More Control for Better Objectivity With the New Version AEVA-V3 by Eotech
  • Eurofins: Always on the safe side – Focus on skin protection
  • Microfactory unveils a new antiperspirant efficacy testing
  • Cutaneous tape stripping: An innovative tool for efficacy assessment by Complife
  • Dermscan tracks the remanence of sunscreen products
  • Intertek evaluates the products impact on the cutaneous microbiota
  • Cosmepar Group celebrates its 40th Anniversary
  • Phylogene analyses the skin interactions of microbiome
  • I.E.C Demonstrates Sebum Regulation via Multi-ethnic Studies

“Boost Your Test” special edition on microbiote, anti-pollution and anti-ageing testing with the special participation of:

  • CIDP: Anti-pollution and ex-vivo objectivation
  • PhDTrials:supports anti-ageing claims with human antioxidant methods
  • StratiCELL: Anti-ageing in vitro evaluation methods

And the last statistics of the platform audience


Small extract of Lipids evaluation

The lipid family of the skin is large with glycolipids, phospholipids, sphingolipids, ceramides, triglycerides, cholesterol, fatty acids… and assures via various mechanisms and structures, the good health of the skin from the upper layers of the Stratum Corneum (hydrolipidic film) layers to the intercellular spaces of the epidermis. Depending on the skin or hair type (greasy skin, prone to acne…), the age, the sex, the zone of the body, the ethnic origin and the environment, the claims about “lipids” are numerous to substantiate: regulate the sebum, re-lipidation, insure the barrier function, non-occlusive, mattifying… The creams, the shower gels, the shampoos or the make-up need to protect or to normalise this essential component. Skinobs platform lists more than 25 methods – qualitative aspect (composition, structure, rigidity…) and quantity (number, ratio…)- in addition to other methods which are consumers testing, clinical scorages and sensory analysis…

Depending on the probe uses, these methods can be implemented on the skin, the scalp or the hair:

  • Sebum content: QuantiSeb, DermaLab Sebum, Sebumeter, SebumScale
  • Sebum analysis: Shotgun mass spectrometry , Metabolimic MS/MS- 16srDNA-PCR (Phylogene), Raman microscopy…
  • Barrier function via TEWL measures: Aquaflux, Dermalab TEWL, Evapometer, Vapometer, Tewameter
  • Skin gloss: Goniolux®, ColorFace, GlossyMeter, SkinGlossMeter, Diffuse
  • Reflectance Spectrometry, Observ520®, Hair tune, Tribology…
  • Hair shine: Goniolux®, GlossyMeter, SkinGlossMeter, Samba Hair, Salsa…
  • The skin/Hair surface: pores size, comedolytic aspect, dark spots… with all types of dermascopes
  • Skin structure: Confocal microscopy, Scanning electron microscopy, Optical multiphoton tomography, Atomic Force Microscopy

Lipids of the skin are also related to the hydration, skin barrier function and microbiome. On the hair, sebum can be associated with dandruff phenomena.

Since few years, the lipid balance is impacted by the environment (sun, pollution,water quality) and the lifestyle. The challenge of the personal care remains the
capacity tomaintain this physiological balancewhile protecting the skin.

Happy reading !

Anne Charpentier



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